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Home Asia Tibet Green Hell to Dram (Zhangmu)
Green Hell to Dram (Zhangmu) E-mail
Asia - Tibet
12 July 2010

Clouded hills in the Green Hell of Tibet, near the border town of Dram (Zhangmu)

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On the day we had left Mount Everest Base Camp and crossed the plateau to Lakpa La pass we would be arriving at the border with Nepal. From the Lakpa La pass the road gradually went down, eventually descending into what people in Tibet call the Green Hell: quite a right name for the place. You won't see anything similiar anywhere in Tibet.

We were driving right through the clouds with waterfalls falling down on the road and our car every now and then. We spent the night in the border town of Dram, or Zhangmu as it is called in Chinese; an unpleasant, strange little border town. Our guide gave screwing us another chance and wanted to dump us in a disgusting hotel, but we'd had so many dissappointments during our trip that we just didn't accept and made a hell of a scene, even including our every polite Chinese friend this time. So with joined efforts we managed to get what our guide Denter called an 'upgrade', but what we found out should have been our hotel anyway. Not too good still (which meant a lot from our mouths at that time!), but a whole lot better at least. We got some food in the spooky town and then went to bed, since we would have to wake up early the next morning. We were going to Nepal!!!

The next morning we were confronted with another dissappointment: We got out of China without any problems, but the Chinese would let our friend Echo out of her own country, since the didn't have the on-demand Nepalese visa yet, which somehow was not a problem for us. After hours and hours of 'negotiating' we got her out of her country and into Nepal. A delay of some 6 hours! The only advantage was that the Nepalese road that had been partly devastated by landslides had been kind of fixed by that time and we headed to the capital, Kathmandu!